I’ve always been interested in bigger waves. I grew up lifesaving in a seaside suburb of Cape Town called Llandudno from when I was five or six years old. My dad was the coach, so I was always at the beach. At about ten years old I started surfing. When the waves were really big the guys used to give me twenty bucks to go out and catch waves when no one else would!
Growing up I’ve always just felt comfortable being out there by myself and I particularly loved the big waves. Part of the reason for that is simply that it’s more crowded when there are smaller waves and I realised the bigger and bigger the waves get, the less people that are out there. So, I didn’t just decide one day that I would be a big wave surfer, it was more of a natural progression.